Today, you’ll find him serving a daily menu that’s limited to five dishes (depending on seasonal availability): shrimp, crayfish, red mullets, koutsomoura, a type of red mullet, and lithrini, a small red snapper. Her son Lazaros took over the business in 1960. During the post-war years, Margaro fed simple comfort food to the dock workers. It’s still tucked away in the same spot, next to the Naval Academy in Hatzikiriakio. Margaro, who originally comes from Mykonos, opened her little taverna in 1944. Other house favourites are the garidomakaronada (pasta with fresh shrimp) and the orzo with seafood, a Greek take on risotto alla marinara.Ī Piraeus cult classic where you can enjoy seafood like a proper local. So here’s your chance to enjoy an authentic ladenia, a pizza-like pie from Kimolos topped with onions and tomato, prepared by his mother. Hungry yet? Although Andreas grew up in Piraeus, he originally comes from Kimolos island. Sit down, order an ouzo, and start ordering dishes one by one: taramosalata (fish roe dip), fried calamari served on roasted red peppers, sea bass carpaccio marinated in lemon juice and served on wild rocket, fresh grilled sardines. Andreas sources top ingredients from all over the Greek islands. The interior is decorated with retro posters, flags and others props that lend a playful humour to the whole setup. It’s nothing big or fancy, but there are few better places in town to enjoy top-notch seafood meze at affordable prices. Who knows? You might even bump into Angela Merkel she ate here during a visit to Athens.įormer sea captain Andreas Kantsos opened Yperokeanio (it means “ocean liner”) in an empty warehouse in the residential part of the port known as Piraiki. Try their delicious kakavia-the traditional fisherman’s soup-or their steamed prawns with a light olive oil, mustard and caper sauce. Portions are large, salads are fresh, and everything is made in-house. Top quality, seasonal fish and seafood are cooked to simple perfection. Now in the hands of Paraschos’ grandson (of the same name), the restaurant has undergone a renovation but the menu hasn’t changed a bit. Thanks to its beautiful location, and a balcony that seems to be suspended over Mikrolimano bay, Panorama appeared in several old films, including The Burglars (1971) with Jean Paul Belmondo and Omar Sharif. In 1957, Paraschos Manioυdakis-who came over to Piraeus from Crete to work in the docks-opened a proper taverna by Profitis Ilias, a panoramic spot up on Kastella hill. It started life in the 1930s as a kafenio, serving coffee and bites to the locals of Kastella, perhaps the prettiest district in Piraeus. This family-run fish taverna has movie credits to its name. Here are our top picks-all well worth spending a few extra hours in Athens, before you head to the islands. Little surprise then that some of the best secret spots to enjoy local seafood are tucked away here, along with some of the most famous seafood restaurants in Greece. Piraeus is home to Athens’ central fish auction (in Drapetsona), as well as an organised fish market in the central shopping district. Perhaps it’s because historically, Piraeus was inhabited mostly by islanders people of the sea, who are usually simple, open and kind. You can feel it in the grittier neighbourhoods like Keratsini, Drapetsona and Perama but also in the photogenic areas of Mikrolimano and Kastella, Piraiki and Marina Zeas. Piraeus retains a nostalgic character that’s rare in big cities nowadays. You’ll find us on any given Sunday enjoying straight-from-the-net seafood at authentic, laid-back favourites like Margaro, or celebrated fine dining restaurants like Varoulko. To us, Piraeus is a diverse seaside community of shipping merchants, working fishermen and old world charms. But to Athenians, it’s not just a place to jump on a ferry and escape to the islands. Think you know Piraeus? Yes, it’s the world’s second largest passenger port.
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